The holidays are well behind us but the events of this week have me longing for one of my favorite side dishes. Creamed onions were a caloric creation dreamed up by my father one Thanksgiving back in the 80’s when I was a junior in high school. Their sudden appearance on our holiday menu seemed random to me at first, but as I listened to my father talk of their origins, I realize why. His mother made them on special occasions. She died suddenly 14 years prior and my father, not being one to show vulnerability, often talked about his mother’s food as a gentle alternative to mourning.
That Thanksgiving, he set about recreating his mother’s dish, and what an exercise in decadence it was: sliced onions floating in a bath of heavy cream and topped with buttery breadcrumbs. Their richness precluded eating more than a few bites at an already heavy meal so we dined on creamed onion leftovers for weeks.
When I began a life transformation 11 years ago, I decided to stop eating dairy and gluten. That decision alone was more life-altering than I anticipated. Weight came off without struggle and my energy soared. I discovered I really didn’t miss binge-foods like I thought I did and when I really found myself pining for a food, I’d simply reinvent a cleaner version. Such is the case with my grandmother’s creamed onions. The vegan creamer doesn’t have the same mouth-feel as heavy cream, but what does? And not having to lie on the couch in recovery mode is a nice bonus.
I’m not really surprised creamed onions are calling my name today. Americans lost something on January 6th, and we’re still trying to define it and put a lasso around the wreckage. Rules weren’t broken, they were smashed to smithereens, blood was shed, old wounds were reopened, and outrage and sorrow are reverberating in unison across the land. I wish things were different, but the only way out is through, and I believe we’ve sunk to such a low-point that going up is inevitable.
A casserole dish full of comfort-food isn’t meant to be an escape or a magic wand. But I’ve still got to eat, so why not shower my menu tonight with a little kind nostalgia? And as I always say to clients, taking the time to make yourself something from scratch is a positive endeavor and a wonderful non-verbal cue that you matter. We all do, actually, and perhaps knowing that truth and living it would be the best reboot our nation can hope for.
Creamed Onions
Ingredients:
5-6 large onions, sliced into rings
1 cup grated pecorino cheese (sheep-milk-based)
1 quart of vegan, unsweetened creamer (I like Ripple or Milkadamia)
About 1/3 cup all-purpose gluten-free flour
1/2 stick unsalted butter
ground pepper
Instructions:
Preheat oven to 350
Melt butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Slowly sprinkle in flour and whisk vigorously. Add more until it’s all absorbed into the butter and a thick paste (roux) is formed. Turn heat up to medium-high and add vegan creamer about a half-cup at a time, continuing to whisk. The cream should gradually be thickened by the roux and be bubbling gently. When all the creamer is added, continue to simmer gently and whisk, so it will thicken a bit more. Turn heat off and set aside.
Begin to layer the onions in a casserole dish (no need to grease). After each layer, sprinkle with a generous amount of grated cheese, and a more moderate sprinkling of black pepper. No need for salt as the cheese is salty enough. Continue layering until onions are used. Pour creamer over the onion layer; it’s OK if it’s submerged. Sprinkle more cheese and pepper on the surface. Bake uncovered for at least 30 minutes, or until top is golden brown. Serve immediately.
